Color with me – Castle on the Hill from The Magical City, part three

Well my hopes of this taking three parts did not come to pass, it will take four. Good news is that I’m behind with post-processing and I’ve actually filmed all four by this point so you won’t have to wait long for the last bit 🙂

Stuff used on day three:
Prismacolor Premier pencils (150 set), Prismacolor colorless blender
Pencils listed in order of appearance. Feel free to use other pencils and/or replace some colorways entirely with something else you like

  • 70% Cool Grey
  • 30% Cool Grey
  • 10% Cool Grey
  • Slate Grey
  • Indigo Blue
  • Peacock Green
  • Parrot Green
  • Light Green
  • Jasmine
  • Dark Green
  • Kelly Green
  • Pale Sage
  • Cobalt Turquoise
  • Colorless blender
  • Moss Green
  • Limepeel
  • Espresso
  • Terra Cotta
  • Cream
  • Cadmium Orange Hue

Today we cover mostly the grass area. I’m keeping this really simple because the image itself is very colorful and I don’t want to confuse the eye too much with doing bells and whistles on the grass.
I did the grassland in two parts, the part further back has cooler greens because that creates the illusion that it’s further back, the eye pushes cool stuff to the background. So warmer in front, cooler in the back.
This image is a tricky one since usually it also helps to darken the bits further away BUT the light source is behind everything and visible on the image so that creates a bit of a trap for us but it’s okay, we can do it!
And don’t mind me being really messy, I’m having some issues with accuracy 😀 I’m going to diagnose this as errorus motoricus or something like that.

End result of day three:
castlep3

Next time, everything still left to do, flowers and water and then we’ll be done!


All the parts of this tutorial:
Day one – sun, clouds, sky
Day two – tree, castle
Day three – grass, bridge
Day four – flowers, river

Color with me – Castle on the Hill from The Magical City, part two

Rock’n’roll! Part two! Today we’ll tackle the tree and the castle itself. Ready? Set… GO!

Stuff used on day two:
Prismacolor Premier pencils (150 set), Prismacolor colorless blender
Pencils listed in order of appearance. Feel free to use other pencils and/or replace some colorways entirely with something else you like

  • Dark Umber
  • Light Umber
  • Terra Cotta
  • Jasmine
  • Colorless blender
  • Dark Green
  • Kelly Green
  • Pale Sage
  • 70% Cool Grey
  • 90% French Grey
  • 30% French Grey
  • 10% French Grey
  • Indigo Blue
  • Espresso
  • 90% Cool Grey
  • Scarlet Lake

The light source here is clearly the sun and the placement of it makes for a bit of a tricky mindgame but we’ll just worry less and color more.
You can totally use black on the windows if you want, I just prefer the mix of dark brown and dark blue since it creates a shade that is a lot more interesting.
Don’t have much for you today in terms of words, just color and I’ll see you soon for the third part!

End result of day two:
castlep3

The book is a bit too wide for my scanner so sadly we’re missing parts. But I’ll take a proper picture for you once it’s all done, no worries.


All the parts of this tutorial:
Day one – sun, clouds, sky
Day two – tree, castle
Day three – grass, bridge
Day four – flowers, river

Color with me – Castle on the Hill from The Magical City, part one

New day, new beginnings, why not do something totally fun and a bit crazy this time? We’ll skip all the theatrics of trying to be perfect and jump right into purple skies with Castle on the Hill from The Magical City by Lizzie Mary Cullen. I’m using Prismacolor Premier pencils here but you can totally follow along with any other brand, just pick something sort-of-kind-of similar and don’t stress. Never stress when coloring! When coloring, life is good, yes, your new mantra, you’re welcome 😀

Stuff used on day one:
Prismacolor Premier pencils (150 set), Prismacolor colorless blender
Pencils listed in order of appearance. Feel free to use other pencils and/or replace some colorways entirely with something else you like

  • Jasmine
  • Cadmium Orange Hue
  • Scarlet Lake
  • Tuscan Red
  • Deco Pink
  • Cream
  • Black Grape
  • Black Cherry
  • Dark Purple
  • Violet
  • Violet Blue
  • 70% Warm Grey
  • Mulberry
  • 20% Warm Grey
  • Colorless blender (use any brand you like or skip entirely if happy with how it looks without blending)

Lets start with saying you don’t need a blender. This paper has a tiny bit of a texture that you can’t feel but you can see when coloring, I like to blend in this book to get a marker-like appearance with no paper showing through but feel free to skip that step. If you do go with it, we’ll be using a LOT of blender pencil up on this page, just a heads up. I usually use Derwent blenders with pages that require a lot of blending since they’re cheap and readily available here but since I’ve been unable to go shopping, Prisma will do. So really, use any brand you like and have. If you do blend, don’t go across the black lines too much, they tend to smear a little.
If you’re intimidated by Lizzie’s images since they look so complicated at a glance, think of it as a puzzle. Just solve the puzzle bit by bit and don’t worry about it. If you get anything “wrong”, like some color where you didn’t want it, don’t worry, it will just blend into everything else. I technically messed up quite a bit of the sky but who cares. Since I’m too lazy for post-production to have a second of this pencil and a second of that, I just filled the gaps that I forgot with something else and see, it works.
This book is all about fun so really, have fun with it. Do whatever you want, hell, color the sky green if you wish. It doesn’t matter. That’s the whole point. We’re not going to shade and be crazy meticulous here, we’re going to have fun and learn a lot in the process, learn to trust yourself, feel the pencils and how to work with paper like this. It will not be in vain, you’ll feel a lot more confident with your next image.

End result of part one:
castlep1

Next time we’ll start with the tree and castle, we’ll see how far we’ll go with the rest. I suspect this will be a tutorial in three parts.


All the parts of this tutorial:
Day one – sun, clouds, sky
Day two – tree, castle
Day three – grass, bridge
Day four – flowers, river

Book review – Summer Nights by Hanna Karlzon

Amazingly enough, I’ve never done a flip through and review of Summer Nights (Sommarnatt) by Hanna Karlzon. That is largely due to the fact that I’m trying to color every single image from this book and don’t want to film it halfway through. So I got the English version, Summer Nights, just to show you guys what it looks like blank. And for my own archival version of how the book looked before coloring. Anyway, without further ado, lets jump into the nitty gritty of this book!

Details: Hardcover, Gibbs M. Smith, 2016
Pages: 208 x 254 x 15mm, 96 pages, good smooth paper, double-sided
ISBN13: 9781423645580
Buy This Book from Book Depository, Free Delivery World Wide

For those interested in my progress, you can see all the colored pages I’ve done so far HERE.

Anyway, Hanna Karlzon is my favorite artist, lets get that out of the way. And Sommarnatt/Summer Nights one of my favorite books of all time.
This book has great paper, the English version is as good as the Swedish one. The images are double-sided and my favorite feature is the fact that it’s hardcover, it allows you to color in your lap or wherever without a table.
The images vary, you get a lot of flowers but also girls and birds and mushrooms, everything you can possibly think of. Hanna’s style is very unique and rock’n’roll, I’d say. I specially love her women, they’re gorgeous beyond belief.
The paper lends itself well to a bit of water as well so Inktense is fine in this book, just don’t float the page. The paper is absolutely brilliant for colored pencil, it takes the pencils beautifully, no need to struggle with it.

Example image:
As stated before, I have a full gallery of examples but to pick one…
_dsc3988

Overall, I adore this book and if you don’t own it, you should, it is amazing! I can not wait to see what Hanna has in store for us next, even though I’ll never ever have time to color every image I love from her 🙂

In other news, this week will see the start of a new color along and there will also be some more book reviews. The next color along will be something from Lizzie Mary Cullen’s The Magical City, as to the medium, I have no idea. Since miss Hewitt does a spectacular job with Inktense in this book, I’m swayed towards dry mediums. If you have any requests, feel free to drop me an e-mail or comment below.

Color with me – Scarab from Dagdrömmar, part three, finale

Sorry to have kept you waiting, guys! Here’s the final part. Inbetween this and the previous video, I went over it again with black Posca, did a third layer. It improved it immensely but still patchy as you can see. Anyway I didn’t want to subject you to watching a third layer so skipped filming that. But today is the final bit, yay!

Stuff used on day one:
Posca, Faber-Castell Polychromos, Tombow Mono Zero eraser, Prismacolor blender
Pencils listed in order of appearance. As always, Prisma equivalents in brackets. Feel free to use both or neither or a third brand or replace some colorways entirely with something else you like

  • Dark Sepia (Prismacolor equivalent Sepia)
  • Nougat (Prismacolor closest is Light Umber)
  • Light Yellow Ochre (Prisma Sand or Jasmine)
  • Cream (Prisma Cream)
  • Payne’s Grey (Prisma 70% Cool Grey)
  • Prismacolor colorless blender (you can replace with any brand or skip entirely)
  • Warm Grey VI (Prisma 70% Warm Grey)
  • Warm Grey III (Prisma 30% Warm Grey)
  • Dark Indigo (no great Prisma equivalent, try either 70% Cool Grey or Indigo Blue if more adventurous)
  • Deep Cobalt Green (try Prisma Cobalt Turquoise or Peacock Green, depending on whether you want a more green or blue hue)
  • Indian Red (closest is Prisma Henna)
  • Terracotta (Goldenrod would be sort of close)
  • May Green (Prisma Limepeel would be great)
  • Red-Violet (PC Black Cherry)
  • Tombow Mono Zero eraser (totally feel free to skip or replace with another eraser, you can just cut a sharp piece from a regular eraser and use it to the same effect, you don’t have to have this exact eraser)
  • Olive Green Yellowish (PC Moss Green)
  • Brown Ochre (closest Prisma is Beige Sienna, or so it seems)
  • Ivory (no equivalent sadly for Prisma, either do just Cream or White or do a very light layer of Seashell Pink or Eggshell and cover with white)
  • Posca black 3M (feel free to skip and leave a white background)
  • Posca white 3M (can replace with Signo Uniball white gel pen)
  • Posca gold 3M (can skip or replace with white dots)

Tips and tricks:

  • You can go a more traditional route of purple-blue-green with the scarabs if you wish. I didn’t want to go that way because I had already established a gentle warm color scheme, the cool bang of color wouldn’t have looked harmonious enough for my taste
  • Initially when I started this, I had a vision of a black background and the smaller circle would have had the striking emerald green of the scarabs. But.. well that didn’t work with the mellow gold scheme. Point here being, don’t be afraid to rethink things as you go, work with what happens, don’t force stuff
  • For a smooth gradient, I’m sure this does not have to be told but I’ll say it anyway, if working from darker to light, press harder in the beginning and start to ease up the pressure evenly as you move out. Same applies backwards if working from light to dark. Don’t be afraid of layering, do a second and third and hell, a fourth layer if necessary to build up the intensity you desire
  • And again, the most important tip of them all – just have fun!

End result:
dagp3

Yay, congratulations to us all who managed to finish this page! Next I have a book review coming and then we’ll do another color along, I’m thinking… maybe… The Magical City by Lizzie Mary Cullen… 🙂


All the parts of this tutorial:
Day one – black Posca background, start of the golden vines
Day two – finishing vines, leaves and flowers, adding a bit of white Posca
Day three – everything else, scarabs, gems, background

Color with me – Scarab from Dagdrömmar, part two

Okay so lets get cracking on making this look a bit better, shall we? Today we’ll finish with the vines, leaves and flowers. I am also going to change from labels to text on screen for pencils, this video still has both, next part will only have the text. Hopefully it’s not a distraction and doesn’t cover up anything important.

Stuff used on day one:
Posca, Faber-Castell Polychromos

  • Dark Sepia (Prismacolor equivalent Sepia)
  • Light Yellow Ochre (Prisma Sand or Jasmine)
  • Burnt Umber (no good replacement from PC but you can try with Sienna Brown)
  • Burnt Ochre (again, no good replacement but try Yellow Ochre)
  • Sanguine (again with the replacement issue, maybe try Pumpkin Orange)
  • Terracotta (same as above, Goldenrod would be sort of close)
  • Red-Violet (PC Black Cherry)
  • Olive Green Yellowish (PC Moss Green)
  • Posca white 3M

Tips and tricks:

  • I would actually suggest not doing the white dots just yet because they will make life harder for you in the future but I couldn’t resist, I wanted to see if I’m heading in the right direction
  • I would usually do the shadows in a cool blue-gray tone but here, brown will do for a start, I might go over it with a blue later but at the moment, this will do

End result of day two:
color

Day three will deal with the scarabs.


All the parts of this tutorial:
Day one – black Posca background, start of the golden vines
Day two – finishing vines, leaves and flowers, adding a bit of white Posca
Day three – everything else, scarabs, gems, background

Color with me – Scarab from Dagdrömmar, part one

I’ve had several requests for a color along from Dagdrömmar by Hanna Karlzon, so high time to make one! And I’ve also had numerous requests regarding doing a black Posca background. I’ve said it before, I don’t like Posca for backgrounds and you’ll see in the video, why. I suppose my style is just way too messy for it, you can probably get a more even look by being… well… less messy. But yeah, me no likey. Anyway this first part is intensely boring for those not interested in looking at black Posca and more black Posca but there will be a bit of pencil work towards the end as well.

And please excuse my hands, it’s winter and they’re super dry and I’ve now taken up a ceramics class, the clay dries my hands to oblivion, it’s insane.

Stuff used on day one:
Posca, Faber-Castell Polychromos

  • Posca black 3M (the number refers to the size of the nib, the smaller the number, the smaller the nib)
  • Posca black 5M
  • Posca gold 3M
  • FC Dark Sepia (Prismacolor equivalent Sepia)
  • FC Light Yellow Ochre (Prisma Sand or Jasmine)
  • FC Cream (Prisma Cream)

Tips and tricks:

  • Don’t use Posca 😀 Okay, it scans worse then it looks so the finished result scan is pretty bad, I’ll take a photo for you once we finish it all but it just won’t look matte black. I’m yet to figure out what would, once I do, I’ll let you know. But black backgrounds are an issue. If you don’t mind the streaks and patches, black Posca would totally be for you. I might try to do a third layer to even things out a bit but we’ll see, I won’t film that if I do, you’d die of sheer boredom 😀
  • If you DO use Posca, move quick, you will want to work fast and into wet, once it dries, the streak between old and new is remarkably worse then with wet into wet
  • If your marker starts to streak too much, pump more paint out, just push the nib on a scrap piece of paper until it disperses more paint
  • You can easily erase pencil marks that go over Posca later, don’t worry too much about being too messy
  • Wait until Posca dries before continuing or it will be a hot mess
  • You don’t have to use a gold marker for the stems, use whatever you have, white will do as well, whatever will shop up from the black. Or leave them as they are if you don’t mind them just randomly floating in the air

End result of day one:
As said previously, Posca scans horribly so it’s worse then it really is, I’ll take a proper picture for you once we finish so you’ll see how it really is but I decided to also show you the scan since it amplifies the issue and you can see what the problem with Posca is. The thing with Posca is that it photographs so well that you’ll think omg yay, a perfect black background but in person it’s not quite the case
color-1

Continuing it soon so stay tuned, I’m hoping to get some filming done today as well.


All the parts of this tutorial:
Day one – black Posca background, start of the golden vines
Day two – finishing vines, leaves and flowers, adding a bit of white Posca
Day three – everything else, scarabs, gems, background