Pencil destash time!

Hey guys! I’m still alive and kicking. Sort of. Haven’t been coloring or doing anything like that, let me tell you, this tonsillectomy business.. Yeah. No. Just no. It’s day 8 and I’ve lost all hope of ever getting back to normal.
However! I’ve spent some time getting more and more annoyed with my cluttered pencil drawer, I can never find anything, it’s just too much! So destash time! Drop me an e-mail if you’re interested in any of these – PLUS! As a bonus, I’ll throw in a surprise coloring book 😉 Though now it’s not a surprise..

    • Derwent Coloursoft, set of 72, wooden box. Review HERE. 80€ (~86$).
    • Lyra Rembrandt Polycolor, tin of 72. Review HERE. 70€ (~75$)
    • Faber-Castell PITT pastel pencils, tin of 60. No review, never used, just didn’t find pastel pencils to be my cup of tea, tested a few. 70€ (~75$)

So yep, shoot me an e-mail if interested. I will only ship registered (worldwide) and shipping cost will be calculated depending on weight and your country. As common sense would have it, no exchanges 🙂 Not really interested in trades unless you want to offer me Caran D’Ache Supracolors or Museums.
If you want bigger versions of the pictures, again, drop me a line.

That’s it for today, folks but I’ll be trying my best to get a book review out for you tomorrow, it’s a real cute one this time!

Color with me – Scarab from Dagdrömmar, part three, finale

Sorry to have kept you waiting, guys! Here’s the final part. Inbetween this and the previous video, I went over it again with black Posca, did a third layer. It improved it immensely but still patchy as you can see. Anyway I didn’t want to subject you to watching a third layer so skipped filming that. But today is the final bit, yay!

Stuff used on day one:
Posca, Faber-Castell Polychromos, Tombow Mono Zero eraser, Prismacolor blender
Pencils listed in order of appearance. As always, Prisma equivalents in brackets. Feel free to use both or neither or a third brand or replace some colorways entirely with something else you like

  • Dark Sepia (Prismacolor equivalent Sepia)
  • Nougat (Prismacolor closest is Light Umber)
  • Light Yellow Ochre (Prisma Sand or Jasmine)
  • Cream (Prisma Cream)
  • Payne’s Grey (Prisma 70% Cool Grey)
  • Prismacolor colorless blender (you can replace with any brand or skip entirely)
  • Warm Grey VI (Prisma 70% Warm Grey)
  • Warm Grey III (Prisma 30% Warm Grey)
  • Dark Indigo (no great Prisma equivalent, try either 70% Cool Grey or Indigo Blue if more adventurous)
  • Deep Cobalt Green (try Prisma Cobalt Turquoise or Peacock Green, depending on whether you want a more green or blue hue)
  • Indian Red (closest is Prisma Henna)
  • Terracotta (Goldenrod would be sort of close)
  • May Green (Prisma Limepeel would be great)
  • Red-Violet (PC Black Cherry)
  • Tombow Mono Zero eraser (totally feel free to skip or replace with another eraser, you can just cut a sharp piece from a regular eraser and use it to the same effect, you don’t have to have this exact eraser)
  • Olive Green Yellowish (PC Moss Green)
  • Brown Ochre (closest Prisma is Beige Sienna, or so it seems)
  • Ivory (no equivalent sadly for Prisma, either do just Cream or White or do a very light layer of Seashell Pink or Eggshell and cover with white)
  • Posca black 3M (feel free to skip and leave a white background)
  • Posca white 3M (can replace with Signo Uniball white gel pen)
  • Posca gold 3M (can skip or replace with white dots)

Tips and tricks:

  • You can go a more traditional route of purple-blue-green with the scarabs if you wish. I didn’t want to go that way because I had already established a gentle warm color scheme, the cool bang of color wouldn’t have looked harmonious enough for my taste
  • Initially when I started this, I had a vision of a black background and the smaller circle would have had the striking emerald green of the scarabs. But.. well that didn’t work with the mellow gold scheme. Point here being, don’t be afraid to rethink things as you go, work with what happens, don’t force stuff
  • For a smooth gradient, I’m sure this does not have to be told but I’ll say it anyway, if working from darker to light, press harder in the beginning and start to ease up the pressure evenly as you move out. Same applies backwards if working from light to dark. Don’t be afraid of layering, do a second and third and hell, a fourth layer if necessary to build up the intensity you desire
  • And again, the most important tip of them all – just have fun!

End result:

Yay, congratulations to us all who managed to finish this page! Next I have a book review coming and then we’ll do another color along, I’m thinking… maybe… The Magical City by Lizzie Mary Cullen… 🙂

All the parts of this tutorial:
Day one – black Posca background, start of the golden vines
Day two – finishing vines, leaves and flowers, adding a bit of white Posca
Day three – everything else, scarabs, gems, background

Color with me – Scarab from Dagdrömmar, part two

Okay so lets get cracking on making this look a bit better, shall we? Today we’ll finish with the vines, leaves and flowers. I am also going to change from labels to text on screen for pencils, this video still has both, next part will only have the text. Hopefully it’s not a distraction and doesn’t cover up anything important.

Stuff used on day one:
Posca, Faber-Castell Polychromos

  • Dark Sepia (Prismacolor equivalent Sepia)
  • Light Yellow Ochre (Prisma Sand or Jasmine)
  • Burnt Umber (no good replacement from PC but you can try with Sienna Brown)
  • Burnt Ochre (again, no good replacement but try Yellow Ochre)
  • Sanguine (again with the replacement issue, maybe try Pumpkin Orange)
  • Terracotta (same as above, Goldenrod would be sort of close)
  • Red-Violet (PC Black Cherry)
  • Olive Green Yellowish (PC Moss Green)
  • Posca white 3M

Tips and tricks:

  • I would actually suggest not doing the white dots just yet because they will make life harder for you in the future but I couldn’t resist, I wanted to see if I’m heading in the right direction
  • I would usually do the shadows in a cool blue-gray tone but here, brown will do for a start, I might go over it with a blue later but at the moment, this will do

End result of day two:

Day three will deal with the scarabs.

All the parts of this tutorial:
Day one – black Posca background, start of the golden vines
Day two – finishing vines, leaves and flowers, adding a bit of white Posca
Day three – everything else, scarabs, gems, background

Color with me – Scarab from Dagdrömmar, part one

I’ve had several requests for a color along from Dagdrömmar by Hanna Karlzon, so high time to make one! And I’ve also had numerous requests regarding doing a black Posca background. I’ve said it before, I don’t like Posca for backgrounds and you’ll see in the video, why. I suppose my style is just way too messy for it, you can probably get a more even look by being… well… less messy. But yeah, me no likey. Anyway this first part is intensely boring for those not interested in looking at black Posca and more black Posca but there will be a bit of pencil work towards the end as well.

And please excuse my hands, it’s winter and they’re super dry and I’ve now taken up a ceramics class, the clay dries my hands to oblivion, it’s insane.

Stuff used on day one:
Posca, Faber-Castell Polychromos

  • Posca black 3M (the number refers to the size of the nib, the smaller the number, the smaller the nib)
  • Posca black 5M
  • Posca gold 3M
  • FC Dark Sepia (Prismacolor equivalent Sepia)
  • FC Light Yellow Ochre (Prisma Sand or Jasmine)
  • FC Cream (Prisma Cream)

Tips and tricks:

  • Don’t use Posca 😀 Okay, it scans worse then it looks so the finished result scan is pretty bad, I’ll take a photo for you once we finish it all but it just won’t look matte black. I’m yet to figure out what would, once I do, I’ll let you know. But black backgrounds are an issue. If you don’t mind the streaks and patches, black Posca would totally be for you. I might try to do a third layer to even things out a bit but we’ll see, I won’t film that if I do, you’d die of sheer boredom 😀
  • If you DO use Posca, move quick, you will want to work fast and into wet, once it dries, the streak between old and new is remarkably worse then with wet into wet
  • If your marker starts to streak too much, pump more paint out, just push the nib on a scrap piece of paper until it disperses more paint
  • You can easily erase pencil marks that go over Posca later, don’t worry too much about being too messy
  • Wait until Posca dries before continuing or it will be a hot mess
  • You don’t have to use a gold marker for the stems, use whatever you have, white will do as well, whatever will shop up from the black. Or leave them as they are if you don’t mind them just randomly floating in the air

End result of day one:
As said previously, Posca scans horribly so it’s worse then it really is, I’ll take a proper picture for you once we finish so you’ll see how it really is but I decided to also show you the scan since it amplifies the issue and you can see what the problem with Posca is. The thing with Posca is that it photographs so well that you’ll think omg yay, a perfect black background but in person it’s not quite the case

Continuing it soon so stay tuned, I’m hoping to get some filming done today as well.

All the parts of this tutorial:
Day one – black Posca background, start of the golden vines
Day two – finishing vines, leaves and flowers, adding a bit of white Posca
Day three – everything else, scarabs, gems, background

Book review – Astro-Inklings by Tanya Bond

Before we go any further, a reminder of the Christmas giveaway! Enter HERE if you haven’t, today is the last day, the winner will be announced tomorrow.
And now, lets look at the amazing Astro-Inklings book by Tanya Bond, the artist edition. This is her latest book.

Details: Paperback, self-published, 2016
Pages: 21.6 x 0.3 x 27.9 cm; 2×12 images for Amazon edition, 12 images for artist edition; thin 90 gsm paper for Amazon, great 170 gsm paper for artist edition; single-sided
ISBN10: 1540362515
ISBN13: 9781540362513
Get it: Amazon edition, Etsy for artist edition

As said, this is Tanya’s latest book. This book features the zodiac signs, represented by the ever lovely Inklings girls. Now I’m not really too much into astrology so by that measure this is not really something for me BUT the Inklings girls totally are. I specially love Leo, I can never resist a freckled girl, the Scorpio girl is also very striking, ah the whole book rocks.
There are two versions of the book, as is usual with Tanya’s books. The Amazon version is single-sided. It features all the zodiac signs but doubled so there are 24 pictures. And the paper is the usual thin copy-paperish paper. My flip through shows the artist edition which you can buy from the Etsy link above, the artist edition has a great 170 gsm paper with a bit of a texture so if you want a smooth finish, you’ll definitely need a blender of some sort. And the images are all printed once.
The Amazon edition is cheaper but honestly, for me, the paper wins the battle and I’d get the artist edition if I were you. Then you can also try Inktense and such on this, I bet it would look fantastic.
There is a great variety here, something for everyone, really. And I love the backgrounds, she hasn’t left us hanging there.

Example image, of course I chose Pisces because well, March girls are the best, totally, specially those born on the 18th 😀 No but seriously, I just liked this one the best, in addition to it being my sign:
Done with Faber-Castell Polychromos and a bit of white Signo Uniball gel pen. And man I suck at the whole signature thing, I keep forgetting it and then I’ve tucked away the book and scanned it and too lazy to go back 😀 Oh well. Don’t steal, mkay?

Overall, love this book! I love this even more then Inklings 2 that was my favorite so far. I so hope I have time to come back and do Leo or Scorpio as well. I do recommend this book if you’re into coloring girls, you’ll love it!

Color with me – Star Queen from Magisk Gryning by Hanna Karlzon, day four, finishing

Yay for the final bit! This one is longer, it covers a whole lot, everything we didn’t do last time, background, hair, eyes and such. The hair took quite some time but you don’t have to do it like I did, I changed my mind in the process, I initally planned to do a more realistic look but then I thought it would look a bit off and too much so I changed tactics halfway through. So you don’t have to be as careful with your layers, or even do so many layers.

Stuff used on day four:
Faber-Castell Polychromos, Prismacolor replacements given below as well. Signo Uniball white gel pen. Blending pencil (I used Prismacolor one but you can use any brand, they all do the same job). Faber-Castell Perfection pencil eraser but you can use any other brand or cut a piece from any eraser, as long as it has a pointy bit, it will do the trick

  • Magenta 133 (PC Pomegranate)
  • Light Purple-Pink 128 (PC Hot Pink)
  • Ivory 103 (PC no replacement, use PC Cream lightly with PC White on top)
  • Cinnamon 189 (PC Nectar)
  • Alizarin Crimson 226 (PC Scarlet Lake or Crimson Red)
  • Red-Violet 194 (PC no exact match, Black Cherry would be a good replacement though)
  • Dark Sepia 175 (PC Sepia)
  • Cream 102 (PC Cream)
  • Cadmium Yellow 107 (PC Canary Yellow)
  • Dark Cadmium Yellow 108 (PC Sunburst Yellow or Spanish Orange)
  • Cold Grey I (PC 10% Cool Grey)
  • Cold Grey V (PC 50% Cool Grey)
  • Sky Blue 146 (PC Sky Blue Light)
  • Cobalt Blue 143 (PC True Blue)
  • Indianthrene Blue 247 (PC Denim Blue)
  • Dark Indigo 157 (PC Indigo Blue)

Tips and tricks:

  • If you’re going for dark hair like me, start with the background so you won’t accidentally drag dark particles from the hair into the background. If you want to do light hair, do those first. With colored pencil, it’s always good to start with light and work towards the dark to avoid accidents
  • Be careful with the printed linework, as you can also see from the video, blending tends to drag the ink around a bit, smearing the work. Some books have this issue, others don’t. This book does.
  • As said earlier, you don’t have to spend so much time on hair. You can totally do with a lot less time and effort
  • The eyes could use more work and depth, specially the whites of the eyes but I wanted to leave them lighter then I’m used to, to make them pop more from the background. If you want a more realistic look, shade them more
  • I am turning the work at times to make it easier for me since my stroke naturally tapers in the end, it’s easier to turn the paper rather than try to taper the start of the stroke for me. Try what feels most natural to you and don’t fear turning the page. When not filming, I turn the page a LOT but it would make you queasy to watch such insanity so I’m only flipping when I feel I really need to.
  • If you want more shine on the lips, feel free to use some gel pen in the end to draw in a highlight. I like the more matte and natural look on her so I kept it like this, erased in a highlight that looks soft and natural.

End result, finally finished. Due to the winter and me still not having a scanner (yet!), I couldn’t avoid some glare from the lighting, the wax reflects the daylight LED I use for lighting so photos are hard to take. There’s not enough natural light at the moment to use that, Estonian winter is long and dark (and depressing). Anyway if you follow along, the hair is definitely black, not this odd sort of reflection-y shade. But anyway, here’s our Star Queen, all done 🙂

Yay! And thanks for sticking around and hopefully playing along. If you do decide to follow it, do share your results with me, you can post on the Facebook page HERE or tag me in Instagram (@coloringaddict).

Next up, we’ll start the next color along very soon, with Derwent Inktense and in a different book, we’ll do flowers next but more on that tomorrow when I’ll show you the book we’ll be using next.

All parts:
Day one – skin
Day two – leaves, start of jewelry
Day three – jewelry, flowers
Day four – background, hair, eyes, lips, finishing touches

Color with me – Star Queen from Magisk Gryning by Hanna Karlzon, day three

The third part is a tad longer, shot over two days. The second day was dreary and dark, seems my lighting is finally decent enough to battle The Winter. Yes, it deserves capital letters. Anyway I think I also managed to find a tad better angle, hopefully my hand is not in the way so much with this. But let me know if it’s still crap.
Today we’re finishing metal bits, doing the flowers and also the gems and stuff on the jewelry. Quite a lot gets done.

Stuff used on day three:
Faber-Castell Polychromos, Prismacolor replacements given below as well

  • Cold Grey I 230 (PC 10% Cool Grey)
  • Cold Grey II 231 (PC 20% Cool Grey)
  • Cold Grey IV 233 (PC 50% Cool Grey)
  • Cold Grey VI 235 (PC 70% Cool Grey)
  • Ivory 103 (PC no replacement, use PC Cream lightly with PC White on top)
  • Cream 102 (PC Cream)
  • Cadmium Yellow 107 (PC Canary Yellow)
  • Sky Blue 146 (PC Sky Blue Light)
  • Cobalt Blue 143 (PC True Blue)
  • Indianthrene Blue 247 (PC Denim Blue)
  • Dark Indigo 157 (PC Indigo Blue)
  • Light Purple Pink 128 (PC Hot Pink)
  • Magenta 133 (PC Pomegranate)

Tips and tricks:

  • Don’t worry if you don’t have the specific pencils, look at what you do have and see how they work together
  • Also no worries, the gems will gem-ify once we add the highlights in the end. But when coloring them, keep in mind that with translucent gems, the light travels through the gem, making the top dark and bottom light. With solid stones, it’s reversed, the shade is on the bottom and light on top. So think about the effect you’re going for
  • You don’t have to add the pink to the flowers if you don’t want to, I find it adds a little contrast and interest but if you like them more pure blue, keep them blue! That goes for anything in the color alongs, do what YOU want. And I always appreciate it if you show me your result when done 🙂
  • I seriously lack tips today. I think of things when I shoot the video and forget them later. But my spoken English is so bad you really don’t want to hear me speak while I color.

End result of day three:

I’m getting depressed with all this blue. Colors have a strong effect on my emotions and I usually tend to stay in the warmer regions because of that. But anyway, it will hopefully be wintery, cold and a bit creepy in the end. Creepy to me at least.
Next time we’ll tackle the rest, trying to finish in four parts again as has become the norm. That will most likely happen on Monday or thereabouts. Until then, I have a book review coming up and the Christmas giveaway I promised you guys.

All parts:
Day one – skin
Day two – leaves, start of jewelry
Day three – jewelry, flowers
Day four – background, hair, eyes, lips, finishing touches